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  • CHOC Online

    Treats and Tidbits Quarterly eLetter

    • Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ’s)

    Here are questions commonly asked by cat owners who contact Cat Hospital of Chicago:

    Hospital Protocols, Procedures and Practices

    Cat M.D.

    General Catty-ness

    Looking Good

    Stop Doing That!

    On The Road Again

    Animal Additions

    Feed Me!!

    Fixing and Expecting

    Saying Good-Bye

    Hospital Protocols, Procedures and Practices

    What is included in a physical examination?

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    All patient physical examinations at Cat Hospital of Chicago are complete examinations. First, a veterinary technician will weigh your cat and may or may not take his or her temperature. Then the doctor will examine your cat’s ears, eyes, nose, mouth/teeth, skin and coat, heart, lungs and lymph nodes, and she will feel your cat’s abdominal organs for any abnormalities. For older cats or those that are limping or just less active, she also may observe your cat’s gait by watching her walk.

    The doctor will make general observations about your cat as well (Is he or she alert? Looks like he or she feels good? Is quieter than usual? More or less irritable? Sitting in a position of discomfort? Are his or her responses appropriate for the situation?).

    In our senior citizen patients (those over 10 years of age), and often in younger patients as well if indicated, the doctor will perform a retinal exam (the retina is the back part of the eye). Retinal changes can be seen with several pathological conditions in cats, including hypertension, which is relatively common in older cats. If the doctor sees any signs of neurologic problems, she will give your cat a complete neurological exam. And if so indicated, she will check your cat’s anal sacs.

    The patient examination, combined with the history that the doctor and nurse obtain from you about your cat, is a critical component in helping us to determine if your cat is healthy – and if not, what may be wrong and/or where our diagnostics should best begin.

    Why is veterinary care so expensive these days?

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    As with human medicine, the veterinary medical knowledge base has grown exponentially in recent years (particularly so with feline medicine), as have technological advances in diagnostics and therapeutics. Pet owners want and demand quality state-of-the-art care for their pets, and much like with human medicine, there is a cost for high-quality, technologically advanced, compassionate care.

    I understand that the total cost of a surgical procedure includes the surgery itself as well as pre-anesthetic medication, intravenous fluids, surgical laser (spays, castrations, declaws, etc.), anesthesia monitoring, blood pressure monitoring, analgesics, warming blanket, etc. Does my cat really have to have all of this?

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    In short, yes – your cat really does need all of this to help protect him or her from suffering any short- or long-term effects associated with less aggressive treatment.

    We provide state-of-the-art patient anesthesia, patient anesthetic monitoring and surgical services for our patients. We also administer pain medication, which is included with all surgeries.

    Although there is a cost associated with these services, we feel that it is to our patients benefit that they receive the best anesthetic regimens, anesthetic monitoring protocols, and pain management possible.

    Although some patients may survive the immediate post-operative period with less-than-optimum anesthetic regimens and anesthetic monitoring protocols, this is not ideal for their health. Recent studies have shown that less aggressive patient anesthesia monitoring in humans (particularly regarding inhalant anesthetic gas levels and correction of hypotension, or low blood pressure, intra-operatively) is associated with increased one-year mortality.

    Thus, the steps that a hospital takes or does not take immediately before, during and after any procedure involving anesthesia may have long-term effects on the cat, including kidney failure and even death as long as a year later, if not done appropriately and thoroughly.

    We take pride in our extremely low anesthetic complication rate and feel that this is in large part due to our use of the safest anesthetic drugs as well as our aggressive anesthetic monitoring protocols.

    The article Anesthesia and Use of Anesthetic Agents in the Library section of our Web site provides more information on this subject.

    In addition, we always administer pain medication for surgical patients. At Cat Hospital of Chicago, we are very aggressive with pain management in both our inpatients and outpatients for many reasons:

    • It’s the humane thing to do;
    • We know that cats that have had surgery without proper pain management will be forever frightened and stressed during veterinary visits;
    • We know that if sudden onset pain, such as that experienced during surgery, is not managed properly and aggressively, it can lead to chronic pain that can last for months or longer; and
    • Unmitigated or uncontrolled pain is a major biologic stressor and affects numerous aspects of physical health, including wound healing and resistance to infectious disease. Recent studies have shown that the incidence of metastatic cancer (cancer that has spread beyond the primary or original site to other parts of the body) is significantly higher in those patients whose pain is not well managed.

    When do you have to anesthetize my cat?

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    We will anesthetize your cat if the procedure your cat needs to have may cause any significant or prolonged discomfort, or if your cat’s personality while he/she is under stress does not allow safe restraint for the procedure.

    How much do your various surgical procedures cost?

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    Our front-desk Client Service Coordinators would be happy to give you some basic cost information on our examinations and surgical procedures. He or she may first ask you a few questions about your cat to better tailor the response for your particular circumstance.

    The surgical quotes for our most commonly performed surgical procedures (spays, castrations, declaws) include the surgery itself, as well as state-of-the-art patient anesthesia and patient anesthetic monitoring (we monitor EKG, body temperature, oxygen saturation, heart and respiratory rates and carbon dioxide levels, we perform manual blood pressure checks every 2-5 minutes, etc.), use of our surgical suite, use of our surgical laser (this reduces pain for surgery patients), intravenous fluid administration to ensure both adequate blood pressure as well as proper blood flow to the kidneys, use of a Bair Hugger pediatric warming blanket to keep our tiny patients warm while under anesthesia (thus reducing the risk of anesthetic complications), local anesthetic/analgesic (pain prevention) blocks at the surgery site, use of our medical therapy laser to help speed incision healing and further reduce pain, and pre-op laboratory tests. Any additional laboratory tests, necessary vaccines, etc. incur additional fees.

    One of our technicians or nurses will generate an estimate for you after the veterinarian has examined your cat and knows exactly what his or her specific needs are and if additional tests might be necessary or recommended.

    The articles Neuter (Castration) in Cats, Spay (Ovariohysterectomy) in Cats, and Declaw (Onchyectomy) in Cats in the Library section of our Web site provide step-by-step information about what your cat experiences on surgery day at Cat Hospital of Chicago.

    Why is surgery using the surgical laser more costly than regular surgery?

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    Laser surgery involves the use of a surgical laser unit that, when used in place of the traditional surgical blade, reduces inflammation, swelling and bleeding, and thus it reduces surgical and post-surgical pain. Whenever expensive equipment is involved in a surgical procedure, there is a cost associated with it.

    When we first acquired the laser unit several years ago, we offered its use as an option to our clients. However, having observed first-hand how much cats benefit in terms of pain control and comfort, it is no longer an option and is used routinely in all of our surgical procedures.

    While my cat is hospitalized at Cat Hospital of Chicago, especially if overnight, can I visit him/her? Can I see where my cat is going to be staying? Can I be the one to take my cat back to his/her hospital quarters?

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    Patient visitation is encouraged for most patients, although some cats may be stressed by those visits. We recommend owners call if they would like to visit, and we will check with the doctor to be sure that the visit is OK and that it will not interfere with patient care.

    Hospital tours are welcome at Cat Hospital of Chicago. Unless it will be disruptive to care or procedures being performed in the treatment/patient ward area, we would be happy to show you the area where your cat will be staying.

    As far as taking your own cat to his or her cage in the back part of the hospital, for safety reasons we usually prefer to have one of the technicians take the cats to the back, but if your cat is less stressed and more comfortable with you doing so, we may allow you to take your cat back yourself.

    Do you clip nails at Cat Hospital of Chicago?

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    We do clip nails at Cat Hospital of Chicago. We are happy to do this while you are in for a regular doctor’s appointment with your cat, or you can set up a technician appointment anytime for a nail trim alone. There is a nominal charge for nail trims, except when performed under anesthesia. All cats undergoing general anesthesia automatically receive a courtesy nail trim, unless requested otherwise by the owner. We also are happy to give you some pointers if you are interested in trying to clip your cat’s nails at home.

    Do you do “lion cuts” at Cat Hospital of Chicago?

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    In those cases where lion cuts need to be done, we can do them on cats that are in for other procedures (such as dental cleanings) or for cats that need to be sedated to have a lion cut done. Otherwise, we are happy to refer you to a local groomer.

    Can you bathe my cat?

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    If your cat is in the hospital for an appointment and gets dirty (stool, urine, etc.) while here or needs to have a bath for a medical reason (fleas, etc.), we are happy to bathe your cat. Otherwise, we can refer you to a local groomer or talk to you about how to bathe your cat at home. Check with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian to be sure that you cat needs to be bathed at all. As a general rule, cats do not enjoy being bathed, so unless it is absolutely necessary to do so, we don’t routinely recommend bathing of cats.

    Do you take payments? Can you bill me?

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    We do not have a billing system. All charges are due at the time services are rendered. We accept most major credit cards, and we offer an outside program called Care Credit in which you can make payments over time. We also accept personal checks and of course cash. Our front-desk Client Service Coordinators would be happy to give you more information on Care Credit if you are interested in that program.

    Are you taking new patients referred from current clients?

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    Absolutely we are! We welcome and encourage such referrals. Additionally, in appreciation of any referrals by our current clients, we offer a ‘thank you’ credit to the existing client’s account for giving us the ultimate compliment – sending a new patient our way! Please see our Patient Tools section for a New Client Form.

    Cat M.D.

    Why does my cat need vaccinations when he/she doesn’t go outside?

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    In recent years, vaccine administration has become very controversial in veterinary medicine, especially in cats. At Cat Hospital of Chicago, we individualize our vaccine recommendations based on age and health of the patient, risk of exposure and duration and efficacy of each vaccine.

    Even for cats that are housed strictly inside, that spend no time out of doors, and that have no contact with any cats that spend any time out of doors, we recommend that two core vaccines be kept current for healthy cats: the combination FVR-CP vaccine, and the rabies vaccine.

    The former vaccinates against feline rhinotracheitis and calici viruses (both upper respiratory viruses) and feline panleukopenia (feline distemper) virus and should be administered no more often than every three years (after the initial series and one-year booster). These are highly contagious viruses that can be brought into the home by humans, so there is potential for exposure even in cats housed indoors.

    Rabies vaccination is required by law for all cats in Cook County and surrounding counties. Vaccinating against rabies is in the best interest of public health. Please read our Ask Boo Q & A entitled ‘Rabid Bats and Cats’. Multiple other vaccines are available for cats; however, we do not routinely recommend these without reasonable risk of exposure.

    The article Vaccinations and Vaccine Protocol at Cat Hospital of Chicago in the Library section of our Web site includes more detailed information on this subject.

    My cat doesn’t seem to be feeling well today, and he feels hot. Can I give him an aspirin or Tylenol?

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    No, absolutely not! Never, ever give your cat any human medication without a thorough consultation with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian.

    Cats metabolize (physically process) drugs differently than most other species, so many prescription and over-the-counter human medications can be quite toxic to cats. This is especially true for those medications known as non-steroidal anti-inflammatories, such as ibuprofen, and Tylenol which can be especially deadly for cats. Other drugs in this category can be used in cats, but only in very small, infrequent dosages, and only under the direct supervision of your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian.

    Also, be aware that the normal body temperature of a cat is 101–102 degrees, so your cat may feel warm to you, but he may not actually have a fever. The only accurate way to know if your cat has a fever is to take his temperature.

    For a video demonstration on how to take your cat’s temperature, go to the Videos section of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Web site and click on Taking Your Cat’s Temperature.

    What are the symptoms of feline leukemia virus?

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    There are three major disease categories associated with the feline leukemia virus, and clinical signs will vary depending upon which one the cat has. General signs could include poor appetite, lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, drooling/mouth pain, poorly healing infections, etc.

    The three major diseases association with the feline leukemia virus are:

    • Leukemia, which is a cancer of the white blood cells.
    • Lymphoma, which is a cancer of many different organs but it begins in lymphoid tissue, such as a lymph node. Almost any tissue may be affected. Organs commonly involved include lymph nodes, intestinal tract, kidneys, liver, spinal cord, brain, bone marrow and blood. In young cats, lymphoma often manifests as a mass within the thoracic (chest) cavity. This is called “mediastinal lymphoma.” Most cats with this form of lymphoma will test positive on our feline leukemia virus screening tests. In older cats, lymphoma involving the intestinal tract is more common. In this case, there may be a discrete mass, but more often than not, there is no discrete mass. Instead, the cancer involves microscopic cancer cells throughout most, if not all, of the intestinal tract. The majority of cats with lymphoma involving the intestinal tract will test negative on our feline leukemia virus screening tests, although the virus may be involved in some cases. Cats with lymphoma involving other organs (kidneys, liver, neurologic system, skin/muscle, etc.) may or may not test positive on our screening tests. Thus, the virus itself may or may not be involved.
    • Non-Cancerous Diseases and Health Conditions, which include a variety of somewhat unrelated health issues. Anemia, abortion and immune suppression are examples. When the immune system is suppressed, the cat becomes susceptible to many diseases it would ordinarily resist, and recovery from mild diseases, such as respiratory infections, is prolonged and more serious.

    My cat is sneezing. How concerned should I be? What should I do?

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    An occasional sneeze may be normal, but if the sneezing is frequent, if there is a lot of discharge, if the discharge is colored or bloody, if there is congestion, if the appetite is decreased, or if your cat does not seem to feel well, he/she should come in for an exam.

    My cat has not defecated in a day. How concerned should I be? What should I do?

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    If your cat is trying to defecate but is unable to do so, or if he/she is not eating or acting normally, is lethargic or vomiting, then he/she should be examined by one of our veterinarians as soon as possible. If your cat seems normal, you can wait one more day, but if he/she still has not defecated, then we should see your cat.

    My cat is defecating outside the box. What’s going on? What should I do?

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    There may be a physical problem, such as constipation or body pain (arthritis, abdominal discomfort from multiple causes, etc.) that is causing your cat to avoid the box, or there may be a problem with the litter box itself. Additionally, stress (as perceived or defined by the cat, e.g., the stress of illness, environmental changes/stresses, etc.) also can cause cats to eliminate outside the litter box.

    Your cat should be examined so we can rule out physical problems and address any litter box or other environmental issues that might be causing the problem.

    My cat is vomiting. How concerned should I be? What should I do?

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    A single episode of vomiting may not be a problem, but if there have been multiple episodes, if the vomit contains blood or foreign material, if your cat is not eating normally, is lethargic or not feeling well, seems constipated, or if you suspect that your cat ate any foreign material or something toxic, we should see your cat as soon as possible.

    Some cats, particularly those with a benign condition known as ‘inflammatory bowel disorder’ (IBD) may have chronic cyclic vomiting– meaning that they vomit with variable frequency, and the vomiting may or may not cycle (in other words, the cat may vomit several times weekly for a week, then stops for a few weeks, etc.). IBD can be caused by a variety of different factors, including food allergies or intolerances, intestinal parasites, secondary to overactive thyroid conditions, heartworm disease, etc. In some cases, it is believed that cats with IBD may go on, in their later years, to develop cancer of the intestinal tract. We should see your cat if your cat has chronic vomiting issues and has not had tests done to rule out known treatable causes, as well as to discuss therapeutic options that may be of benefit to your cat.

    My cat is vomiting worms. What should I do?

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    Bring the cat and a fresh stool sample into Cat Hospital of Chicago so we can check a stool sample and examine your cat to determine what medication will be needed to eliminate the worms. If possible, bring in the worms – that will help with the diagnosis. These parasites, although disturbing for owners to see when the cat vomits, are not life-threatening and usually are very easy to eliminate with the proper medication.

    My cat is limping. Does he/she need to have x-rays taken?

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    For limping cats, we do recommend that the cat be brought in for an examination, which may include x-rays. If the cat is behaving normally otherwise (eating, drinking, etc.), if there is no open wound/obvious injury/overt pain, if the cat is weight-bearing on the affected limb and you are unable to get your cat in right away, you can restrict his/her activity (no running, playing, jumping) for a few days to see if the limp resolves. If not, the cat definitely should be seen by one of our veterinarians.

    There is a scab on my cat’s chin. What is it? Should I be concerned about cancer?

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    Although cancer is a possibility, it is quite unlikely. A scab on a cat’s chin could be seen with feline acne, a wound, etc., but there is no way to diagnose either without a doctor examining the cat. After examining the cat, the doctor will be able to give you a better idea of the cause of the scab as well as discuss treatment options.

    My cat has an open wound. What should I do?

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    The cat should be examined as soon as possible. If the wound is actively bleeding, if it exposes organs, etc., it is a potentially life-threatening emergency, and the cat should be seen at Cat Hospital of Chicago or the nearest emergency clinic. Apply pressure in the meantime if the wound is actively bleeding.

    My cat is sneezing, lethargic, and has a decreased appetite since having been vaccinated. How concerned should I be? What should I do?

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    Vaccines in general can temporarily cause fever, lethargy, etc. for one to two days in a small percentage of patients because of the immune response. If the cat is not back to normal within 24-48 hours, if there is a green/yellow nasal discharge, or if severe congestion develops, the cat should be examined by one of our veterinarians.

    If your cat received an intranasal (nose drop) vaccine for feline panleukopenia (feline distemper/feline parvo) or feline rhinotracheitis/calici virus (upper respiratory viruses), the sneezing can be a normal reaction that may last for a few days up to 2 weeks. The sneezing may start anywhere from 1-6 days after the vaccine was administered. Other than the sneezing, most of these cats are fine otherwise (eating, normal or near-normal activity level, etc.).

    My cat seems lonely since my other cat/pet died. What do you recommend?

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    We recommend that you provide your cat with more attention through petting, grooming and playing. After you both have grieved over your loss, you can then consider getting another cat as a companion for both you and your remaining cat.

    My friend gives her cat a variety of herbal and other “natural” products she gets at the store to help improve the cat’s health. Are these safe? Should I be giving them to my cat, too?

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    There are many issues to consider with these types of “non-drug” over-the-counter nutraceuticals and herbal supplements. First, none of these types of products are FDA regulated, so they’re not subjected to the same safety, efficacy and label approval process of actual drugs. So although many people think that because herbal or other alternative products are “natural” that they are extremely safe, that is not necessarily so – a lot of products that are natural have not been proven to be safe or effective. The safety of herbs depends on the portion of the plant involved and the FDA has little to no control over this.

    What’s more, there are just as many, if not more, risks associated with the use of some of these products as there are with actual drugs, including side effects and drug interactions. A number of these products will interfere with anesthesia, hemostasis (ability of blood to clot properly), etc. The FDA must follow all adverse events for drugs, but no one is responsible for reporting non-drug adverse events to the FDA, so you can’t assume that a natural product is safe just because no adverse events have been reported.

    In addition, some of these products have environmental contaminants and microbial contamination, and they may not even contain what the labels say they are! So you may be giving your pet or taking something yourself that is an absolutely worthless product – and at the same time, denying your pet or yourself of something that works.

    For example, some of the glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate products that can be purchased over-the-counter were tested a few years ago by consumerlab.com, a reputable organization that conducts independent tests of herbal, vitamin and mineral supplements, and many of them had absolutely no glucosamine or chondroitin sulfate in them at all!

    Consumerlab.com is a good resource if you want to know if a product label of something you want to purchase is accurate. They also check for contaminants and other things that will cause products to fail. Another indication that a product is accurately labeled is if it has a Good Housekeeping or United States Pharmacopoeia’s (USP) seal on it. USP’s new Dietary Supplement Verification Program (DSVP) certification mark on product packaging signifies that the supplement has undergone rigorous independent testing and verification from the same public health organization that has been setting medicine and dietary supplement standards since 1820.

    Please note that cost is not a factor – expensive products aren’t necessarily better.

    The bottom line is, it’s always a good idea to consult with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian before giving your cat any products – natural or otherwise – purported to improve his/her health. And be sure to tell your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian if you’re giving your cat any of these types of supplements when you bring your cat in for treatment (we won’t scold you – we promise). It’s important for us to know what your cat is taking so we can reduce the risk of drug interactions or other complications.

    I want to get my cat’s prescription filled through an online pharmacy. Can you FAX a prescription for my cat’s medication over to them?

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    We welcome having owners of our patients shop around for best price and convenience when it comes to filling prescriptions for cat medications. However, we do caution that anyone choosing to purchase medications online do their homework first to make sure that the internet site from whom they will be purchasing the pet drugs is a reputable pharmacy. Many such pharmacies are very reputable. Others, however, are fronts for businesses breaking Federal, State, and sometimes International laws. Your cat’s medication and his life are too important to neglect this responsibility! Visit the following FDA sites regarding internet pharmacies for assistance.

    Cat Hospital of Chicago recommends that you purchase the medication at our hospital or at an accredited online pharmacy to ensure you’re getting quality medication and that it has been properly stored. The Vet-VIPPS program (Veterinary-Verified Internet Pharmacy Practice Sites) accredits online pharmacies that dispense prescription drugs and devices for companion and non-food producing animals and assures you that you are purchasing drugs and devices from an online pharmacy that is properly licensed and complying with state and federal laws and regulations. (See the Vet-VIPPS website at http://www.nabp.net/programs/accreditation/vet-vipps/ for more information about this organization, and see its online pharmacy database at http://www.nabp.net/programs/accreditation/vet-vipps/find-a-vet-vipps-online-pharmacy/ for a list of accredited online pharmacies.)

    To make it as convenient as possible for owners who prefer to purchase their cat medications through Cat Hospital of Chicago, we offer online prescription and food requests through our website (click here), and we are always happy to mail most medications as well.

    General Catty-ness

    My cat gets extremely stressed by hospital visits, and he is a real handful for the veterinarian to handle. That’s why I don’t take him in very often. But now he is sick, and I know I need to take him in. How can I make the trip and the visit overall less stressful for him?

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    First, be assured that your cat is normal – it is completely natural for animals to be stressed and uncooperative in the strange environment of a veterinary clinic. Some cats become quite defensive and try to bite and scratch, and they’ll hiss and scream. Others just freeze due to fear, so they are particularly easy to examine, but they are still just as stressed as the fighters. Many cat owners are not used to seeing their beloved cats behave in this manner and become upset about it, but it is absolutely normal.

    At Cat Hospital of Chicago, we pride ourselves in doing all we can to alleviate anxiety, fear and fear aggression in the hospital setting. Cats communicate non-verbally in a number of ways, including ear position, tail position, stance, posture, etc. We closely observe these non-verbal cues and “listen” to our patients so that we can make the veterinary visit as pleasant as possible for them and ensure that no patient, no matter how difficult to handle, is denied a thorough exam and proper care.

    To help reduce anxiety, some cats are sedated while at the hospital. We also can talk to you about giving your cat oral sedation at home prior to coming in.

    In addition, we use Feliway, a pheromone diffuser, in the exam room as well as in our treatment area to help reduce stress. The pheromone mimics the feline’s positive facial pheromones and helps to calm cats in stressful situations.

    Should we need to draw blood or urine, we almost always do it in the exam room with the owner present, which is less stressful for both patient and owner. And we always try to send cats that have had surgery home as soon as possible, because we know there’s no place like home.

    To help make the trip less stressful for your cat, try leaving the carrier out in the open for a few days if possible prior to your appointment to help get the cat used to it.

    If your cat tends to get carsick, medications may help. Talk with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian about this. Also, don’t feed your cat for 3-4 hours prior to the trip, and cover the carrier with a towel.

    See the article in the Library section on How to Help Your Cat Have Pleasant Veterinarian Visits. This article was authored by AAFP (American Association of Feline Practitioners). Additionally, visit www.catalystcouncil.org/resources/video/?id=89 for a video put together by the Catalyst Council (www.catalystcouncil.org) that gives tips on getting cats into carriers, etc. A YouTube video by Dr. Ron DeHaven of the American Veterinary Medical Association may be helpful as well in offering tips on getting your cat in to see the veterinarian. This video can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M13ymuPFH0U.

    What does it mean when my cat purrs?

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    Most commonly, cats purr when they are happy or content. Cats also can purr when they are stressed or nervous (such as when they are in the hospital for veterinary visits). They also can purr when they are not feeling well and/or when they are in pain.

    What does it mean when my cat’s nose is cold and/or dry?

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    Although we think of most healthy cats as having cool, moist noses, this can vary from cat to cat and can vary throughout the day for one cat, so the nose is not the best barometer for whether a cat is healthy or ill. Look at your cat’s overall behavior, appetite and activity level, and call your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian with any questions.

    How long does a cat live?

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    The average cat lives about 12-15 years, though we see a large number of cats 15-20 years old. There even have been reports of cats living to be 30 years old or more! Indoor cats typically have a much longer lifespan than cats that are allowed outdoors without appropriate supervision. See Aging Changes in Cats in the Library section of our Web site for a table that converts cat years to human years. At Cat Hospital of Chicago, we consider any cat over 10 years of age a ”senior” patient, and especially for those cats, we recommend twice yearly exams and laboratory work at least once a year. Please see our article on our Senior Care Program.

    Does my senior cat really need to have twice yearly exams and annual laboratory work? That seems like a big expense if there’s nothing wrong with him.

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    We strongly recommend senior cats have twice yearly exams and laboratory work at least once a year so we can help prevent or treat many age-related conditions and enhance your cat’s quality of life.

    As cats age, there is a decline in organs, mental abilities, sensory function and immunity. But because of their instinct to protect themselves, many cats will hide their illness, so even though your cat may look healthy and act fine, he could be starting to develop an age-related problem.

    Frequent examinations will enable us to detect the presence of small problems or changes in your cat’s health before they can become major problems, and with annual blood tests, we can identify a potential health issue before it progresses too far. For example, a cat may have kidney disease for months to years before developing any indication of the disease. During that time, the cat could lose up to 75% of her kidney function before showing signs that anything is wrong. Performing blood work will help us detect early changes in kidney function and allow us to manage this disease process properly — allowing her to live a longer and healthier life. Please see our Library article on our Senior Care Program.

    When will my cat stop growing?

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    Your cat will stop growing at 7-12 months of age.

    I am having difficulties giving oral medication to my cat. What can you suggest?

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    Our certified veterinary technicians and veterinary nurses would be happy to talk with you personally to give you tips on how to best orally medicate your cat. Alternatively, feel free to set up a technician appointment for in-person assistance.

    For a video demonstration on how to give oral medication to your cat, go to the Videos section of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Web site and click on either Giving Your Cat a Pill or Capsule or Giving Your Cat Liquid Medications.

    How long do I need to withhold food and water from my cat prior to a procedure involving general anesthesia?

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    Good news for your cat! Food only needs to be withheld for 2-3 hours prior to anesthesia. Water does not need to be withheld and should be made available at all times until the cat is hospitalized.

    How do I know if my cat is in pain?

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    The Oscar truly does go to the feline species for having an incredible ability to hide pain and illness. In the wild, if they exhibit vulnerability (including letting others, especially prey, know that they are painful), it puts them at risk. Amazingly, as a species, they have adapted incredibly well to hide their pain. Often, owners don’t know, or don’t think, their cats are in pain because they hide it so well! For veterinarians to better help owners to manage pain in cats, it is important for owners to recognize the behavior changes, even if subtle, that are the hallmark of pain manifestation in cats.

    Changes in behavior or normal routine are often the first signs of pain or illness in cats. Cats that are in discomfort or distress may not eat as well or they may stop eating, they may hide or seek unusual places to sleep or hide, they may sleep more hours of the day (even if in the same places as always), and/or they may become more withdrawn and stop their normal activities. Occasionally, cats will cry out if in pain, but this is rare, as most cats will not cry or seek help, but instead will suffer in silence. Often, especially early in the course of illness, or if only mild to moderate pain is being experienced, these behavior changes may be very subtle, and they may be the only sign(s) that the cat exhibits (i.e., the cat may still be eating, and overall putting up a good front).

    If you suspect your cat is in pain, contact your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian at once.

    See Pain Recognition and Management in Cats in the Library section of our Web site for more information about identifying and treating pain in cats.

    Does it hurt to scruff a cat – as is sometimes done for restraint in an animal hospital?

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    No, it does not hurt a cat to restrain it by the scruff as long as it is done gently. However, many behaviorists are of the opinion that scruffing a cat in order to restrain it (for a blood draw, examination, etc.) causes the cat the feel a loss of control (not surprisingly), and thus increases the cat’s stress and anxiety levels associated with the veterinary visit. At Cat Hospital of Chicago, we use the ‘scruff restraint technique’ as infrequently as possible for that reason, having found in most cases that other methods of restraint are just as effective, if not more so, when restraint is needed, and are less frightening for the cat. However, we do recognize that some cats do seem to respond favorably to a gentle ‘semi-scruff’ and in those cases, as with all of our patients, we use what works best for that cat when any restraint is needed.

    How often should I scoop and/or clean out the litter box?

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    If you are using clumping/scoopable litter, you should scoop the box at least once or twice daily, and change the whole box monthly. (You may need to use less litter in the box.) This will help prevent out-of-box elimination problems.

    If you are using non-clumping (clay) litter, you should also scoop soiled litter (urine, feces) once or twice daily. With this type of litter, the whole box should be changed more frequently, with a minimum of once weekly. Some cats don’t demand such rigid cleanliness, but some do.

    Thus, at the very least, all soiled litter (urine and stool) should be removed once or more daily and the litter box topped off with fresh litter. And for those fussier cats, more rigid cleanliness procedures as described above should be followed.

    Is catnip safe for cats and kittens? At what age can I start giving it to my cat?

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    Catnip is safe. Some kittens and adult cats are not interested in catnip, but many truly enjoy it, become very playful when under its influence, and may even munch on it. It can be offered from kittenhood to adulthood. Quality of catnip may vary, and therefore so may the cat’s response to the catnip.

    Looking Good

    How should I trim my cat’s nails? How often should I trim them?

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    We recommend using a small pair of clippers designed for cats. Clip only the tip of each nail, trying to avoid cutting beyond the pink part of the nail. This is called the “quick,” and it’s where the blood supply and nerves of each nail are located. If you cut too far and the nail begins to bleed, pack a small amount of styptic powder (available at pet stores), cornstarch or flour into the nail.

    Generally, we recommend clipping nails every 4-8 weeks. Some cats, particularly older cats, may need to have their nails clipped more often to prevent them from growing back into the paw pads (and thus causing paw pad infection). Check with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian for a recommended schedule for your cat.

    It may take some time to get your cat used to having her nails trimmed. Try doing one paw or even one toe at a time and be sure to praise or reward her at the end. For a video demonstration of how to trim a cat’s nails, go to the Videos section of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Web site and click on Trimming Your Cat’s Claws.

    Should I bathe my cat? How often should I bathe my cat?

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    Unless your cat goes outside and gets dirty or gets into something indoors, or has a medical condition that is helped by regular bathing with special shampoos, most likely she does not need to be bathed. Check with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian to be sure. Your veterinarian also can advise you on how often to bathe your cat, as doing it too often can cause coat or skin problems.

    Stop Doing That!

    My cat is scratching up furniture and won’t use a scratching post. What can you suggest?

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    The Library section of our Web site contains an excellent article called Scratching Behavior in Cats, which should help you. Most cats can be effectively trained to utilize an owner-friendly scratching surface, although it may take more time and require more owner patience with some cats.

    I am having trouble getting my cat into his/her carrier. What do you suggest?

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    Assuming you have a carrier that just opens on the end, you might try backing your cat into the carrier with the carrier sitting on a table or countertop, backed up against a wall. You also might try turning your cat carrier on end and lowering your cat into the carrier back feet first (you may need to hold the cat’s back feet together and “load” the cat into the carrier), or you might try placing the carrier on the countertop with the opening at the edge of the countertop and then putting the cat in head first. Since there is nothing for the cat to step onto except the carrier, some cats will go into the carrier on their own.

    If you continue to have difficulties, you might consider getting a carrier that opens on the top as well as on the end. These are widely available at retail and online pet stores.

    When I bring my cat home from Cat Hospital of Chicago, my other cats attack him/her. What’s going on? What do you suggest?

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    When this happens, it’s usually because the cat that was at Cat Hospital of Chicago has foreign smells, so the resident cats may perceive him or her as a new cat, or at least feel threatened by the unusual odors.

    When this happens, try rubbing all the cats with dirty laundry to get the normal “home smell” onto all of them. Alternatively, an extremely tiny dab of cologne on your finger touched onto the forehead of each cat may help.

    If these suggestions do not work, confine the aggressive cat for 24 hours to allow the cat that went to the hospital to re-acclimate and to allow all the cats in the home to return to a calmer state.

    My cat is waking me up late night/early morning. Can I remedy this situation?

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    Cats are nocturnal animals, so they often will be more active at night. Make sure that you do not reward this behavior by getting up and giving your cat attention by picking him/her up or feeding him/her. You should provide 15-30 minutes of playtime before bed to expend some of that energy. Some owners have to go as far as locking the cat out of the bedroom, and even utilizing ear plugs to keep from hearing and reinforcing the cat’s behavior by acknowledging the cat when they are awakened in the middle of the night!

    My cat bites me when I play with him/her. What’s going on? What do you suggest?

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    Are you “hand-playing” with your cat? If so, your cat could be perceiving your hands as “prey.” So first of all, make sure that when you play with your cat that you are not using your hands directly. There should always be some kind of a toy between you and your cat. You can throw a mouse toy for him/her to stalk. You can use a laser pointer on the wall or floor. You also can use a stuffed animal meant for an animal to play with (i.e., no “eyes” or other items that could come off he/she could swallow) to substitute for your hand!

    On The Road Again

    I am moving to a new home. What can I do to help my cat adjust?

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    If you are moving far, read our article Traveling With Your Cat in the Library section of our Web site. Cats are creatures of habit, so any upset in their daily routine, including packing boxes all over the house, an overly stressed owner (moving is stressful for owners, too!), etc., may be stressful for the cat. Many cats, on the other hand, view the moving boxes as fabulous hiding places and new toys!

    Prior to the move, try to keep your cat’s daily routine as close to normal as possible. On the day of the move, to prevent your cat(s) from escaping out of the house while the movers are coming in and out, keep your cat(s) in a cat carrier, in a bathroom or other closed room where the movers are not likely to go. Perhaps post a sign on the door that says “Keep Closed. Cat Inside.” If this isn’t possible, the cat may need to be boarded for a few hours at the hospital.

    Once cats are in the new home, most actually will adjust to the new environment rather quickly, especially if many familiar “home” items are present (the cat’s food and water dishes, litter box, cat toys, cat bed, home furniture, etc.).

    Cats by nature will want to sniff around their new surroundings, some may vocalize excessively for a day or so, some may have a decreased appetite for a day or so – but the majority of cats will be settled in and doing well within 24-48 hours of the move.

    If your cat has not been examined recently, consider having this done before moving to identify any health problems that could complicate the cat’s reaction to the move, and ask your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian any specific questions that you may have at that time about the move.

    When traveling by car, is it okay to let my cat out of the carrier?

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    Generally, it is safest to keep your cat in her carrier while traveling. Letting a cat out of the carrier, especially if she is not otherwise restrained, actually can be more stressful, as most cats feel somewhat secure inside their carrier. A loose cat in a car also can be dangerous because the cat can get down by the accelerator and/or brake pedals, be at higher risk for escaping from the car when the door is opened, etc. Cats also have been known to wedge themselves between the front door and front seat. Occasionally, we do hear of cats that will calmly sit in the passenger seat and watch passing traffic, but this is the exception rather than the rule. Additionally, we recommend that the cat carrier be seat-belted, just as we seat belt ourselves. See Traveling With Your Cat in the Library section of our Web site for more information.

    Animal Additions

    I am bringing home a new cat/new dog. How can I help my cat to adjust?

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    Bringing home a new cat or a new dog always involves an adjustment period for the new cat/dog, existing cat(s), and of course the owner. In nearly all cases, if done properly, the new arrival will be a welcome addition to the home.

    In a nutshell, we recommend that all introductions be done slowly, and that all interactions are supervised initially. See our Ask Boo article Introducing a New Cat/Inter-Cat Aggression for a variety of tips on how to make the introduction as smooth as possible, as well as our Library article on Introducing a New Cat Into the Household.

    Additionally, many pets are adopted from reputable shelters (in Chicago, these shelters include The Anti-Cruelty Society, PAWS Chicago, Tree House Humane Society, etc.) that will provide written information on the introduction process. Many tips can be found on their Web sites as well.

    Should I get another cat for the one I already have?

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    This depends on the personality of your cat. Young cats often like having a playmate, but older cats may not. There are some young cats that like being the only cat in the household, too. You may not be able to know this until you get another cat and see the response. Just like with people, the ‘chemistry’ may or may not be right between any two particular cats. As a general rule, we counsel owners to get another cat if they want another cat, and not necessarily because they think their present cat wants another cat.

    Is it better to adopt from a kill or a no-kill shelter?

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    Cats in all shelters need homes, so this decision is personal preference. The most important consideration should be in adopting a healthy cat from a reputable shelter that appropriately screens, viral tests and vaccinates all cats being adopted, in addition to providing appropriate, stress-reducing housing and addressing feline environmental enrichment issues.

    Some of the best facilities in the area are:


    Tree House Humane Society    :

    Uptown branch:

    1212 W. Carmen Ave.
    Chicago, IL 60640
    (773) 784-5488

    Bucktown Branch:

    1629 No. Ashland Ave.

    Chicago, Il 60622

    773-227-5535

    The Anti-Cruelty Society
    510 N. LaSalle St.
    Chicago, IL 60610
    (312) 644-8338

    PAWS Chicago
    3516 W. 26th St.
    Chicago, IL 60623
    (773) 521-7729

    Tree House is a cat-only, no-kill shelters, while The Anti-Cruelty Society and PAWS Chicago also house dogs. PAWS is a no-kill shelter, as well.

    All three of these facilities carefully evaluate their animals’ prospective owners to ensure the pets are going into loving homes and will be cared for well. They only adopt out healthy animals, and they provide proper and thorough veterinary care as well as housing, food and human interaction while the animals are in their facilities. In addition, each shelter offers educational programs addressing a variety of issues, including humane treatment of animals and how to recognize potential animal abuse.

    Feed Me!!

    What should I feed my cat? How much food should I feed my cat?

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    Unless your cat has specific dietary requirements necessitating a prescription diet, we recommend that you feed a commercially produced name-brand diet that has gone through Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) feeding trials (not just formulated using AAFCO guidelines). AAFCO feeding trials ensure the cat food has been fed to cats and determined to be palatable, digestible, etc.

    We also recommend that most cats be fed both dry and canned food, but this may vary depending on any concurrent health issues, cat preference, etc.

    An exclusive canned food diet, or one with a canned food focus (i.e., mostly canned, small amount of dry) more closely mimics the “natural” diet of the cat (mice and birds) and is preferable overall for cats because:

    1. Canned food is less often associated with obesity and weight gain (it’s a high protein, low carbohydrate diet).
    2. Canned food is less often associated with urinary tract problems because of its increased water content.
    3. Canned food, again because of its increased water content, is better at preventing dehydration in those cats prone to hydration problems (older cats, cats with kidney problems, constipation, diabetes, etc.).
    4. Canned food has a stronger odor than dry food, so may help to encourage some cats to eat better (including cats with nasal congestion, senior cats that may have lost some of their ability to smell, etc.).

    Food always should be measured and ideally meal fed, which means putting the food down at specific times, like a breakfast and/or a dinner, rather than making it available all day (see our handouts “Transitioning to Meal Feeding” and “Weight Management” available in the Library section) to help prevent obesity.

    Also, we recommend reducing the quantity of food listed on food bags or cans by 25-30%. For the majority of Cat Hospital of Chicago’s population of indoor, less active cats, feeding the amounts listed on bags and cans of commercial and prescription diets often leads to over-feeding, and therefore weight gain. Thus, for normal indoor cats, taking 25-30% off the food bag recommendation or canned food label is a good start to help prevent your cat from gaining weight.

    If your cat already is sporting extra pounds, our veterinarians can put together a diet plan for him/her.

    My cat is 7 years old now. Should she be put on one of those senior diets?

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    This is a question best discussed with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian. Many of the “senior” diets available in grocery and pet stores say something on the package like “For cats 7+ years,” but just because your cat has turned 7 (or whatever age the package says) doesn’t mean that a diet change is in order. Your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian needs to evaluate your cat individually before she will be able to determine if your cat should go on a senior diet, and if so, which one would be best.

    Be aware that there is no “standard” senior diet, and that not all senior diets are created equally: some of them have increased protein while others don’t; some have increased fiber while others don’t; most are reduced in fat, but the amount of fat reduction can vary.

    How much should my cat weigh?

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    Weight itself is not as important as is body condition. The ideal body condition, regardless of weight, is when the cat’s ribs can be felt with slight fat covering them, the cat has a visible waist when observed from above, and the cat has a minimal abdominal fat pad. Every patient seen at Cat Hospital of Chicago is assigned a body condition score at each visit so the veterinarians can track how the cat’s body condition changes. We encourage owners to feed their cats to maintain a healthy body condition.

    Fixing and Expecting

    When should I get my cat “fixed?”

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    Neutering (spaying of females and castration of males) is usually done around 4-5 months of age. Many shelters are performing this surgery at a much earlier age, which is quite acceptable, but at Cat Hospital of Chicago, we usually wait until the 4-5 month age range.

    Females should be spayed before their first heat cycle, which usually occurs around 6 months of age, to prevent unwanted pregnancy and to reduce the risk of breast cancer later in life. Males should be castrated before they begin unwanted behaviors, such as urine spraying, which usually occurs after 6 months of age. Castration of males usually prevents unwanted spraying, but it does not correct the habit if it is already ingrained.

    How long are cats in heat?

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    Heat cycles in cats are dependent upon the number of hours of light (daylight or even artificial light) per 24-hour period. The more hours of light, the more likely the cat will experience normal heat cycles. Thus, seasonal heat cycles lasting from late winter/early spring until late fall/early winter are common in cats.

    Cats will show signs of heat for about 5-8 days on average, and unless they mate, they will go back into heat again in 3-14 days – assuming there are adequate “light” hours. This cycle repeats for the entire season unless the cat is spayed or bred. Intact (unspayed) females may continue to experience seasonal heat cycles into cat “middle age”(approximately 8-10 years of age) and beyond, though the regularity of the cycles may vary after 10-12 years of age or so.

    How do I know if my cat is pregnant?

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    Assuming your cat has not been spayed (spaying removes both ovaries and uterus, making conception/pregnancy impossible), your cat may be pregnant if she has an enlarged/distended abdomen but is eating and drinking well, has mammary (breast) gland development/enlargement and a history of possible contact with an intact male cat.

    We strongly encourage spaying of intact females and castrating intact males to prevent the birth of unwanted kittens. Even if you think you may be able to find homes for any kittens born to your female cat if she becomes pregnant, please keep in mind that thousands of kittens are euthanized (humanely put to sleep) every day in shelters all over the country. If those people willing to take one of your cat’s kittens would instead visit a local shelter and adopt a kitten there, we could prevent at least a few unnecessary deaths of young healthy kittens.

    How long will my cat be pregnant?

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    The gestation period in cats is about 65 days, give or take a few days.

    What do I do if my cat goes into labor?

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    If your cat goes into labor, provide her with a nesting area with soft bedding in a quiet place. The first stage of labor includes restlessness with pacing, vocalizing, nesting, possibly panting or vomiting. This can last for several hours before the birth.

    The second stage brings contractions and birth. This usually lasts less than 6 hours with kittens being born every 30-60 minutes, although stress can cause the queen (mother) to stop labor for as long as 24 hours before resuming. Strong contractions for more than an hour may indicate problems, and a Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian should be contacted.

    The third stage of labor is the passage of the placenta. The queen usually eats it, but it can be removed and discarded once it has passed.

    Saying Good-Bye

    How will I know when it is time to euthanize my cat?

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    Euthanasia is a peaceful and humane way to end patient suffering and is something important to discuss with your Cat Hospital of Chicago veterinarian. You can make that decision together based on your cat’s disease, clinical signs, quality of life, etc. Some things to consider:

    • Does your cat no longer enjoy being a cat? (Something we recommend is to make a list of all the things your cat enjoys doing when he/she is healthy and feeling good. You can refer back to this list to help answer this question.)
    • Can your cat no longer do normal cat things, such as eating, eliminating or grooming?
    • Does your cat not interact with you as he/she usually does?
    • Do you have to constantly redefine what a “good day” is for your cat?

    If the answer to any of these questions is yes, it may be time to consider humane euthanasia. Our Library article on Quality of Life Considerations may also be helpful to owners faced with making this difficult decision.

    What happens when my cat is euthanized?

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    For most humane euthanasia procedures done at Cat Hospital of Chicago, first a sedative injection is administered under the skin to calm your cat. He/she will fall asleep or even become unconscious within a few minutes of the injection. A second injection is then given, either into a vein or into the abdomen, which causes your cat’s vital functions (breathing and heartbeat) to stop.

    You will have the option of being present or not during the euthanasia procedure. This is very much a personal decision – some owners do, some don’t. You always will be given time to visit with your cat both before and after euthanasia if you wish. Additionally, you will be given options regarding cremation and return of your cat’s ashes, as well as information on pet burial.


    Cat Hospital of Chicago is your source for the best cat veterinarians and veterinary equipment in Chicago. Our cat doctors bring years of experience and a lifetime of compassion to our cats-only facility. We use state-of-the-art equipment, and our cat veterinarians receive continued training and education, making Cat Hospital of Chicago the best cat veterinary facility in Chicago. For more information about Cat Hospital’s cat doctors, click here.